A Whole New World

The Atacama Desert, what a beautiful place! Aside from throwing me right into the middle of Aladdin, the driest desert on Earth simply took my breath away.  I am so incredibly thankful that I got to have this experience, I've gotten a lot more appreciative lately. Being that Incubus is my favorite band, it seems fitting that my new motto comes from one of their songs: "Don't ever let life pass you by" (WOAHHHH, no joke this song just popped up on my iTunes shuffle! Fate.) I'll try to summarize this amazing experience as best I can :)

My journey to the Atacama began with a night spent on the beach. I know what your thinking, "I thought she went to the desert, not the beach." I did, but I had to stop in Antafogasta while in transit. I flew from Santiago to Antafogasta and then bussed from Antafogasta to San Pedro de Atacama. Antafogasta is this podunk little town, and by that I mean the third largest city in Chile. Too bad there is absolutely nothing to do in this mining town. My flight arrived at 11p.m. and my bus was not leaving until noon the next day... I was traveling with 6 other students and

 we were fortunate enough to score a ride from the airport to the bus terminal (about 30 minutes) from this suuuuper nice father. 8 of us squeezed into his 7-seater, all with our huge backpacks and headed to the bus terminal. Jose is just another example of how amazingly nice Chileans can be. Upon arrival to the bus terminal, I was able to change my bus time from noon to 7am the next morning. That only left 7 hours to kill. Being stubborn and not willing to spend money on a hostal, we were all looking to sleeping in the bus terminal, until we had a thought...to the beach! Eventually the cold won out and we ended back at the bus terminal, but it was a fun couple hours chilling on the beach.

Bus travel in Chile is awesome and super easy, not to mention it is ten times more comfortable than flying. This made it easy to knock out on the five hour ride into the desert. I was greeted by sun when I arrived! It was the greatest feeling ever to feel the sun on my skin. The hostal also had a car that came to pick us up :) Hostal Nuevo Amanecer is an awesome family-owned hostal that dealt very well with a bombardment of 21 Americans. There was a little balcony that offered an awesome view of the nearby mountains. The highlight of this balcony though was being able to stare into a night sky lit up by millions, and I mean millions, of stars. The clarity was incredible and was a welcome break from the smogy skyline of Santiago. The firepit was also a nice place to relax at night and have a jam sesh or two or three. This was my first time staying in a hostal with people I didn't know, but it was a positive experience and I met some cool people (Specifically 3 Kiwis - from New Zealand- who were traveling South Am via motorcycle!) Being my mom's daughter, I got straight to the sightseeing without wasting a minute. I can't even begin to describe the awesomeness of my days. The best I can do is give you, my faithful readers, some of the highlights.

Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)

GORGEOUS! It really looks like you are in another world. Everything is flat, then out of nowhere is this crazy rock/mountain/sand/salt creation that is Valle de la Luna. It really is massive! It kind of reminded me of the Grand Canyon, each part is different, and has unique characteristics, and offers a different view. It's best to go at Sunset for truly incredible views. You have to hike about 30 minutes to get to the top of one of the peaks to get the best view. You think it's not that bad, but altitude definitely gets ya. Also, the temperature drops as soon as the sun goes down. We're talking shorts and t-shirt weather to sweats and warm jacket weather. I think my coldest night there it was -16 Celsius! The geography of this place is so varied and truly breathtaking. After the sunset, we got to explore some salt caves! Super cool except for when our guide decided to leave and we were actually lost out in the middle of the desert. Don't worry, we found our way back, I am writing this blog afterall.

Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley)

Some say that Death Valley got it's name because it's where many of the "desaparecidos" (the disappeared) were sent to die under the dictator Pinochet. I got to know a much happier Death Valley, one of sandboarding and salt crystals. Massive sand dunes provide decent slopes and a soft landing for when you take a tumble, or many tumbles in my case. Warning: You will get an incredible amount of sand in your shoes, so just be prepared. If you take a tour, pisco sours (basically Chilean margaritas) and a drive to a prime sunset watching spot are included. Once again the geography of this place blew my mind! The sand was just littered with salt crystals in some place. Naturally I took a taste to see if it really tasted like salt, soooo salty! It's strong stuff. It was strange to be able to just walk among the sand dunes. In some pictures it really looks like you are out in the middle of nowhere by yourself. It was really nice to be able to venture out and just be alone with my thoughts. If you are into exploring nature, the Atacama is one place you can't miss and Valle de la Muerte is a must-see. 

Laguna Cejar and the Lagunas Altiplanicos

These two places were by far the most beautiful. Laguna Cejar is 30% salt and it's super easy to float, the only downside is that it is freezing cold. I decided to forgo the floating, but I was still able to absorb the gorgeous scenery. The lagoon is electric blue, surrounded by glowing white salt flats, in the middle of what looks like a wheat field, with the Andes as a backdrop. I know right?! So amazing! How this was created in the middle of the driest desert in the world I couldn't tell you, but I will tell you that it's worth the 30 minute car ride over unpaved/rocky roads.

Ojos de Salar is on of the lakes on the Altiplano. They are two perfectly round pools of water that are right next to each other making them look like eyes. The water is still freezing but this time it's green and you can't see the bottom. I love jumping off things though, so I couldn't pass this one up. remember to bring a swimsuit if you go, so you don't have to rock the shorts and sportsbra look. Hitting the water was by far the coldest thing my body has ever experienced, but the rush is incredible. I jumped twice.

The final spot we went to on the Altiplano was once again a prime location for watching the sunset. I literally can't put into words how beautiful it was. It was a really moving moment for me, 360 degrees of an incredible view. Everyone who went on the tour just picked a spot and sat and watched the sun go down. There was no need to sit in a big group, everyone just had their own moment with their thoughts watching the most beautiful scene unfold. Not an exaggeration at all, I think watching the sunset there was the most beautiful thing I have seen in my entire life. The pictures don't do it justice.

 

As if it wanted to leave a permanent impression on my mind, the Atacama gave me the most incredible sunset on my last night. Regardless of the sunset, this trip is something that will forever hold a place in my heart. The desert is an incredible place for self reflection.

Blogging > Studying for my Final

I officially feel like I am a member of the massive metropolis we call Santiago. It was only just yesterday that, for the first time, I didn't feel like a complete foreigner. Walking to the metro someone actually asked me for directions! At first I was completely pumped that this girl thought I looked like I knew where things were, then I was even more stoked that I was able to give her correct directions! It was a really proud moment for me. People still know I'm a foreigner as soon as I open my mouth, but I don't get stared at for walking down the street (unlike some of the blond girls in the program). When I tell them I'm from California, they don't believe me, "Pero tu hables bien el castellaño." (But you speak Spanish well) There is always a look of comprehension followed by a nod and a smile when I tell them I am half Mexican. My dad is probably grinning right now because he knows I have a good accent, but for some reason I just prefer to sound like a gringa (white guurlllll) when I talk to him.

This past week of school has flown right by. Tuesday we didn't have class and Wednesday-Friday 2 hours are taken up by student presentations. On my day off I really got to explore the city a bit more. I picked up my Chilean ID (another reason why I feel like more of a santiaguina) and met up with my friend Lewis! That sentence doesn't seem like one that should require an exclamation point, but just wait until you hear the backstory. Four years ago (I can't believe it was 4!) I went to Spain over the summer to study Spanish in the city of Salamanca. I stayed with a host family and Lewis was my host brother. He's from England and was also in Spain for some studies. Then good ol' facebook notified me that he was going to be in Chile for the entire year that I would be studying there! Que bacan! (Cool!) To me it is the craziest coincidence in the world. Anyway, on Tuesday we met up and got a free tour of the city. The tour was really awesome and we met some other snazzy individuals, two irish girls, a brazilian, an argentinian, and another brit. 

The Intensive Language Program (ILP) that I have been doing for the past three weeks is finally over tomorrow! The program really helped me develop friendships and learn a lot about Chilean culture. That being said, I am definitely ready to start real school. Thankfully I have a week off between the ILP and when the semester starts, so obviously I am going to travel :) A huge group of us are going to northern Chile to see the Atacama desert, the driest desert in the world! It's time for some rest and relaxation, in addition to trekking,hiking and possibly sandboarding.

A word of advice to anyone who might travel to Chile: Pisco sours are delicious, but strong! Even though the drink looks small, it will go straight to your head. Ten cuidado (be careful)

Adventures

It's been almost a week since I last wrote something (so it's gonna be another long post) and what a crazy/eventful week it has been: hiking San Cristobal, visiting La Moneda (the presedential palace), wine tasting at Concha y Toro, and a day trip up to the Andes. I decided to stay with my host mom for the remainder of the semester to accelerate my Spanish learning, and to really live as Chileans live (in their parent's house until they are 30). Add school into the mix, and it's one hell of a roller coaster ride. No wonder my immune system has taken a hit and I'm left sipping medicine in the form of tea. Never in my life have I experienced such a range of emotion in such a short time period. All of the sudden July is halfway over and I'm left dumbfounded as to where the time went. I'll post some pictures on my blog, but check out my facebook albums for more :)


Cerro San Cristoal is one of the many hills in Santiago that offer some great views of the city. We definitely weren't expecting such an intense hike, so we blamed our struggling on the smog and the altitude :) 

The View: Santiago, Chile (That's not fog, it's smog)

Me, Hannah, Lauren, and Christina after the hike up

La Moneda is basically the Chilean White House, it was pretty cool to get a tour. We got to see the interior courtyards and a couple of the interior rooms. We were shown the room where President Piñera works, but of course we weren't allowed in there :/ 

Looking at La Moneda from a nearby street

Chapel inside La Moneda

Wine tasting was super fun! It was my first wine tasting experience and I'd say it was a positive one. We got a tour of the whole winery (I don't know if that's always how it works, but I thought it was super cool). Concha y Toro is actually one of the major producers of wine in Chile and is only 30 minutes outside the city (90 minutes if your bus driver makes a wrong turn and can't find a place to make a u-turn on the 2 lane highway).

The winery was gorgeous, but to get there we had to drive through some pretty run down areas. I honestly had never seen first hand poverty that extreme. We are talking little shacks with dirt floors and patched together pieces of metal to create a "roof". It really affected me. The differences between the classes is so apparent and somewhat shocking to see up-close.

Concha y Toro Vinyards

$1500 USD just for the BARREL

On a happier note, the Andes are absolutely gorgeous! We took a day trip up there for my language class, groups chose locations to go and observe aspects of Chilean culture. A ski resort near El Colorado seemed like a good choice. The scenery was just absolutely breathtaking, so gorgeous. It had  just snowed, so there was fresh powder everywhere and I felt like I was truly submersed in a winter wonderland. 

Me and Hannah outside trying not to freeze

View from the lodge of El Colorado

It was pretty snowy

It hits me at random times that my brother is really gone, and standing on top of the Andes with the sun shining through the clouds was one of those times. Some moments are harder than others but I'm getting through it. Thank you to everyone who has supported and and my family during this hard time, especially my fellow EAP members. You guys have helped me more than you probably know, I really feel like I'm not alone down here. Joe will be with me every step of my South American journey. 

My heart's still active in sadness
And secret tears still flow
What it meant to lose you
No one can ever know.
But now I know you want us
To mourn for you no more
To remember all the happy times
Life still has much in store.

- Section of the poem on Joe's memorial card (Thank you Ellen for finding such beautiful words)

In Loving Memory

I always knew what those words meant but they never really resonated with me, until now. We have all seen them before and heard them spoken, but it's not until you have lost someone that you can really feel their true meaning. Yesterday I found out that I lost my brother. Joseph, you will be missed more than words can describe. I know that you know how much we all love you. You were a fantastic friend, son, and brother. Yes, you were a brother to me.

I am going to miss walking in the house and hearing you blast death metal; I'm going to miss you sleeping until two in the afternoon and then having to stand an inch away from the kitchen clock to read what time it was; I'm going to miss saying that I have three brothers; I'm going to miss you telling me I look like a turtle; I'm going to miss you buying Christmas presents for yourself; I'm going to miss your undying love for Priscilla; I'm going to miss your affinity for Hollister and Abercrombie. I miss you so much already, but it doesn't feel like you're really gone.

You will live on in my heart and in my thoughts. I love you Joe Bean.

La Católica

The architecture is definitely an upgrade from SB :)

One Week

As of this morning at 8:45 a.m. I have been in Santiago for exactly one week! It feels like so much more time has passed and I don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing. Santiago is an absolutely massive city with close to 5.5 million people, so I can't say I know the city very well, but I feel like I finally know my way around. Getting to school takes about 45 minutes, but it's worth it. I live in a really good neighborhood and once I'm off the bus, this is what I get to walk by:

 

The Andes

Last weekend all UCEAP students studying in Chile this semester went to Algarrobo for our orientation retreat. It's this absolutely adorable little beach town just south of Santiago. Most of you guys reading this are thinking beach, summer, great! Yeah, it's summer in California, but it's the dead of winter here. That means that the beach was even colder than the city. Although it was sunny most of the time, the temperature dropped to about 35 degrees every night. The scenery was just incredible though. I think I am going to like Santiago, but I feel like the "great outdoors" as they say, is why I came to Chile. Simply breathtaking.

The Copa de America is underway and it's definitely a topic of conversation everywhere. It's being held in Argentina and if tickets weren't so expensive, and the pass over the Andes wasn't so unreliable, I would be there in a second. The futbol culture here is absolutely incredible. A bunch of us went to a bar to watch the Chile v. Mexico game on Monday. It was freaking epic! Mexico lost and I was super bummed, but Chileans got crazy when they won. Mexico scored first and you could hear crickets. Literally no one said anything and people just froze. Quite differently, when Chile scored, the bar boomed in an uproar of cheers and song. c-h-i, CHI! l-e, LE! chi, chi, chi! le, le, le! VIVA CHI-LE! Chile won and literally it was a party in the streets. Call me a traitor, whatever, but I took part in the celebrations. Mobs of people just jumping up and down, singing, cheering, waving the flag, it was exhilarating! After a while the military tanks rolled through and we bounced. All this for a game only in the first round of play. If Chile makes it further, shit's gonna get crazy!

So far my week here has been filled with an immense amount of information and activities. I am constantly going, going, going and by the end of the day I am completely exhausted. It's overwhelming, but I wouldn't have it any other way. A couple of things I have learned:

1. If you drink coffee, instant is your only option.

2. Chileans are CRAZY party people. Generally the night starts at midnight, and you don't arrive back home until 5 or 6 in the morning ( I can't hang...yet)

3. Walmart has made it's way to Chile :( You can find a Lider, Express Lider, or Super Lider within walking distance almost anywhere you are in the city. But literally it's walmart, it's the same company.

4. Pan is EVERYWHERE. If you ever plan on coming to Chile, don't eat carbs for a month beforehand, you will surely get your fill here.

5. Facial hair and beards are in :D This is great news.